Install guide

Installing sod: laying, seams, rolling, edges, and slopes

General guidance for commercial landscapers, not a site-specific recommendation and not professional advice. Soil, irrigation, slope, and weather change the job. When a detail matters, check the sources below, your county extension office, and the grower supplying the sod.

Lay sod the day it arrives. AgriLife says sod is perishable and performs best within 36 hours of harvest. In hot weather, treat that as a maximum, not a goal. Keep unlaid sod in the shade and do not leave it covered so tightly that it heats.

Where to start

AgriLife: rake lightly, then lay the first line along a straight edge such as a drive, a walk, or a string between two stakes. The Lawn Institute adds two practical points: start at the far side so you are not walking on fresh sod, and run rows across the steepest slope rather than down it.

Seams

Stagger the ends like brickwork so the joints do not line up. Push pieces together. AgriLife notes that pieces can shrink if they dry before they root, which opens gaps. The Lawn Institute says not to overlap edges: an overlap dries out and is the first place a mower scalps. Do not stretch sod to make it reach. Small gaps can be filled with a cut piece. Do not leave a strip of bare soil "for the grass to grow into."

Cut pieces with a knife against a board. Keep cuts tight against curves, valve boxes, and concrete. AgriLife suggests moving sod in wheelbarrows over plywood so the crew does not rut the prepared soil.

Edges

The finished surface should meet walks and the existing lawn without a lip. A high edge scalps. A low edge holds water and drops. If the bed was firmed first, you should not have to bury the sod to make the height work. Do not bury the green leaf under soil along a bed edge; soil on the crown invites disease and a poor seam.

Rolling

Roll after the section is down, with a water-filled or other lawn roller, so the roots contact the soil and air pockets collapse. AgriLife calls this a heavy hand roller and says uniform contact is what rooting needs. The Lawn Institute describes a drum-type water-filled roller. Do not use a trench roller or a loaded truck. If the site is too steep or too soft to roll, tamp the pieces by hand so each one sits flat. Rolling is not a substitute for water.

Slopes

Lay traditional pieces across the slope, seams staggered, as The Lawn Institute describes. On a slope where pieces can slide before they root, pin them. Wooden stakes or sod staples, driven flush so they do not catch a mower, are the usual method. This guide does not state a slope ratio that always requires pins. Extension pages checked for this site describe laying across the slope and securing sod that can move; they do not agree on one number for North Texas. If the sod can slip, pin it. Start at the bottom or the top and work so pieces rest on each other rather than hanging. Turn the top edge slightly into the soil where surface water would otherwise run under the first row.

Large rolls are handled differently from small slabs. If the grower delivers big rolls, follow the grower's laying direction. Do not assume the small-slab rule is the same.

As soon as a section is down

Water it. Do not wait until the whole job is finished if that will be hours in the sun. AgriLife says to water until the soil is wet about 4 inches deep and to lift several pieces to check. The next page covers the first month, including how often to come back.

Keep traffic off the new sod. Heavy mowers rut a soft bed. Mow only after the sod is rooted and the surface is firm enough to hold the mower, which AgriLife ties to watering less often once roots have taken.

Sources

Put a number on the job

Use the calculator for square yards, then send the job to a partner grower. The only grass that form offers right now is Tifway 419 Bermuda. Soddesk does not set the price.

Sod calculatorStart a job